Nothing warms the soul in winter quite like an escape to the country. And where better to stay than a charming village inn with period features, luxurious furnishings and delicious food – The Dog at Wingham has it all.
Sitting in prime position for trips to both the medieval town of Sandwich with its nature reserve bay and Kent’s only city of Canterbury, is the enchanting village of Wingham. Boasting beautiful architecture that has remained unchanged for centuries, including thatched cottages and an early 13th Century church, this village is the epitome of rural charm. And what is an idyllic Kentish village without an ancient inn? Expected to have been an inn since around 1549, The Dog at Wingham has flourished through the centuries and is set to embrace 2024 with a carefully sculpted identity. With over 400 character-forming years defining its sturdy foundations, The Dog is now led by the steady hand of owner and publican Marc Brigden.
“Go for a cocktail!” Marc tells me, and I order an ‘Amalfi Spritz’. Stocking over 50 local and international gins, drinks are taken seriously here, and although the trendy influence of London-style establishments is apparent, locality takes priority. “We’re big on local,” Marc says, “We stock lots of carefully selected Kentish brands, including spirits from Copper Rivet Distillery in Chatham and Kentish Pip Cider, which is only a few miles away – the concept of local extends beyond just fresh produce for us.” Although Marc and his young family now live on the border of Kent and London, he still travels down almost every day to work at The Dog, and Kent, along with its Garden of England produce is a matter close to his heart. A man who grew up surrounded by Kent’s orchards, when he took on The Dog at Wingham in June 2016, Marc always knew that the best of the county would be showcased here. As well as his menus however, Kent’s rural identity seeps through the very walls of The Dog, which has been lovingly renovated while making the most of some stunning original features.
This deft interior styling hand has extended up the creaky staircase and into each of the eight bedrooms here, the pièce de résistance being the room I am staying in: Room Four. A spectacular Bridal suite, Room Four boasts an awe-inspiring vaulted beam ceiling, an architecturally glorious King post in its centre.
Although the bed makes a striking centrepiece for this room, other complementing features elevate the room to even more superior levels. A sofa and armchairs that strike the perfect balance between elegant and homely make this room more than just a bedroom, an exposed brick fireplace adds a depth of history and character, while views to the church and rolling Kentish hills can be taken in though huge windows that allow daylight to stream into the room.
Marc goes on to tell me more about the restorations, which he completed only five months after purchasing the premises in June 2016. “We underwent a full refurbishment and opened in October. We retained as many period features as we could while making the building as sturdy as possible – we even found a tree branch holding up the ceiling in one of the bedrooms!” Since reopening, minus tree branches, The Dog has become one of Kent’s most well-known, leading gastronomic destinations. People simply rave about the food here, and I always wondered just how warranted these acclamations were.
I sip a mojito mocktail by the fireplace before dinner, and as I decide I could drink several more of these, we are taken to our table, next to yet another exposed brick fireplace. The Dog has just the right amount of tables for a meal to feel intimate while the atmosphere is kept warm and jovial – the echoes of hundreds of years of guests and punters dancing, almost tangible in the air. As we pore over the menu some slices of beautifully fluffy (local) Gilda Bakery sourdough with churned butters and a dish of marinated Gordal olives are placed in front of us. As expected, Head Chef Roberto Mantenga has crafted a seasonal selection of dishes with a fierce focus on provenance and locality, resulting in an mouthwatering array that oozes individuality – plenty of classics with original twists. It is the culinary genius of Rob that helped land The Dog at number 29 in Estrella Damn’s Top 50 Gastropubs 2023, and my first sample of this comes in the form of smoked burrata with Isle of Wight tomatoes, balsamic, olive crumb and wild rocket. The burrata is perfection, it’s creaminess is complemented by the fresh, sweet zest of the tomatoes and punchy tang of the balsamic.
Ever a starter-sharer, I trade some burrata for a forkful of chicken radicchio with romaine lettuce, honey mustard, serrano ham and pecorino. Crunchy fresh lettuce is the ultimate partner to the saltiness of the hams, which in turn is complemented by the sweetness of the honey mustard. Moving on to the mains, after much deliberation, I decide on the wild sea trout with braised octopus, crushed Jersey royals and Agruva caviar sauce. Work-of-art presentation consists of a curl of octopus tentacle, sitting atop a pink, silver-skinned piece of trout, itself on a bed of fluffy bed of mashed Jersey royals with plenty of herbs. The Agruva caviar sauce surrounds one side of this, its consistency allowing it to stay neatly in place – picture perfect.
Taste matches presentation. The octopus has that texture that octopus is so loved for: a dream to sink the teeth into and exquisite on the tongue. The trout is equally cooked to perfection, a crisp, salty skin covers soft, melt-in-the-mouth fish, its gorgeous flavour a fine example of freshness and quality of produce. Strength of flavour doesn’t stop there, the Jersey royals are a buttery mass of wholesome goodness, and the Arguva caviar sauce takes the entirety of the dish to sensationally higher epicurean levels. Although comfortably full, I’ll ever say no to dessert. I opt for pistachio white chocolate delice with blueberry sorbet. The distinct pistachio flavour brings originality to this pud, while its famously good compatibility with white chocolate brings indulgent sweetness and elevates the overall flavour.
The food journey at The Dog doesn’t stop here. After a dreamy night’s sleep feeling like a tiny princess in my super king four poster, I head down for breakfast. A beautifully strong cappuccino, cold glass of orange juice and creamy porridge with maple syrup make for the perfect start to my day and the perfect end to an incredible stay.
