Why you need to experience “The Orangerie” at The MAINE, Mayfair

Somewhere between Oxford Circus and Hanover Square I discreetly switch my trainers for the satin white heels I have been carrying in my bag. In an effort to preserve both my feet and the pearliness of my shoes, I have decided that The MAINE, Mayfair, will have a cloakroom and be the perfect place to wear impressive, high, white shoes. I am correct. 

Directly off Bond Street and overlooking Medici Courtyard, I come face-to-face with what from the outside, can only be described as an oasis within an oasis. Tucked neatly away from central’s hustle and bustle, The MAINE discreetly yet confidently, absorbs one side of the courtyard: its beautiful terrace centre stage. As I step over the threshold, I am transported out of London and into a jungle of botanical leaves and green climbers. A striped, tasselled awning stretches over marble-topped tables and elegant wicker furniture beckons me into this newfound sanctuary.

The MAINE Mayfair

The MAINE, Mayfair

Far more than merely a terrace, this addition to The MAINE is in fact, “The Orangerie”: a “secret” Mediterranean garden, transformed by artist and designer Gergei Erdei. As I take in my surroundings, I further admire Romanesque urns hand-painted by Erdei himself, and even sumptuous cushions, all printed with hand-illustrated artworks. Visually, The MAINE knows it’s impressing you – but this should be no surprise. 

Founded by restaurateur Joey Ghazal, The MAINE seamlessly blends old-world British elegance with New England extravagance, from a Grade II listed townhouse in one of London’s most prestigious spots. Located in what was once the original gardens, the dog-friendly, 100-cover terrace also boasts a ‘raw bar’ doubling as a Champagne and cocktail bar too. Glinting gold, I watch it mesmerised as staff work their magic to mix up my first cocktail: a Mayflower Martini. 

A fragrant blend of fruit flavours with floral overtones, this sophisticated quencher hits the spot – and also takes the perfect picture. Served in a martini glass so slim and elegant I fear it may break, it makes the ideal focal point for my first photograph, framed by the beauty of the terrace, glorious house and French windows behind.

Mayfair restaurants

The New England-inspired menu on the terrace perfectly complements an alfresco meal in the Mayfair sun, so, I happily select four small plates. Let me start with the standout: charred artichoke hearts with lemon, parmesan dressing and pecorino. That crunchy, slippery artichoke texture gives way to a clean, fresh, earthy taste with a gentle, gorgeous nutty undertone. Lightly dressed in olive oil, nicely ‘charred’ and offset with the sweetness of the parmesan and saltiness of the pecorino, this dish is an utter delight. 

The beauty of ordering these small plates is that more can be enjoyed by the individual when shared, and this is something The MAINE encourages. Also placed on our table top is the ‘prawns a la plancha’, with rosemary, garlic and green chilli. The prawns are so fresh and so distinct in flavour, they need little help from seasoning, but the additional ingredients elevate this flavour to a more sophisticated ‘Mediterranean’ level. 

This is also the case with the octopus, which comes chargrilled with black olive tapenade, chilli oil and samphire. Again, the freshness of the seafood takes precedence. Its distinct flavour and satisfying squeaky texture is elevated all the more by the strong, sour-salty olive taste of the tapenade, the kick of chilli and green crunch of the samphire.

Staying on that sophisticated Mediterranean theme, our fourth and final small plate is Italian, hand-cut, tenderloin steak tartare. Texture is always key with steak tartare and this one doesn’t disappoint. Rich, beefy flavours and tangy seasonings are beautifully offset by creamy egg yolk and nutty, sweet parmesan shavings – tartare at its best. 

The MAINE Mayfair

As we wait for our dessert to arrive, I take a moment to absorb these beautiful surroundings as much as I can. The worry of being too cold is non-existent due to conveniently placed heaters promising to keep guests toasty should the threat of cold weather or the chill of a late night loom, and woollen blankets offer an extra layer of comfort if needed. 

Two simply glorious desserts are then placed on our table. This isn’t a shock to me because I copied the melted cookie dough with ice cream after spying at another table first (thank me later). It is just as good as it looks, hitting that dreamy sweet-meets-salty ratio, with chocolate chips thrown in for good measure, and creamy, no-nonsense real-dairy ice cream melting it all together into one satisfying, sweet goo. 

Although the cookie dough overshadows the cheesecake, the latter is still delightfully smooth and dense. It is a bit too easy to keep sliding your fork into, taking ‘just one more’ creamy, indulgent bite. Although this marks the end of our meal, it far from concludes the evening.

Music notes and the echo of laughter drift up from downstairs, out onto the terrace setting the scene of a balmy Mediterranean night all the more. This is why, when visiting The MAINE, I strongly suggest you pay a visit to the drawing room downstairs. Here, live performances take place, full of sparkle and even more allure. Every Saturday, The Sunshine Boys roam from table to table, playing a mix of Motown, soul, and everything in between. 

  

Together, the elegant “Orangerie” and the glittering persona of The MAINE itself achieve an effortless identity of en-vogue glamour. Blended with all the laid back charm and tranquillity of a hotspot-restaurant somewhere along the riviera, The MAINE promises diners chic sanctuary – with extra entertainment if you so desire. So, if you’re looking for a Mediterranean meal under the Mayfair sun (with an extravagant party to round it off) look no further than The MAINE – it’s bound to be a showstopper.   

Olivia Riccini

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