We’re thrown out of our seats as we take on the meandering bends of The Isle of Sheppey; an area I had heard of while I was at the University in Kent, though admittedly it was never on my agenda. It was this mystical place we would see on the road signs as we got closer and closer to the edge of the country, but dare not venture to like it was a foreign country.

“I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore Toto”, seems a fitting way to depict how we felt as we got to the final roundabout before coming up to the Sheppey Crossing. We are confused – the bridge seemed strangely familiar, much like the Dartford Bridge but the landscape at the other end doesn’t conjure the same familiarity. We are on our way to somewhere described as the “nearest faraway place to London”. I have to say, I’m initially apprehensive of what’s in store. Having spent a lot of my childhood visiting the Isle of Wight, I’ve learnt there are kooks and pitfalls that come with island life; slow economical and technological advances and everyone knowing each other’s business, not to mention the expense for getting on and off the island itself! Equally though, there are perks to the island; a slower lifestyle, charming coastline and thriving wildlife to name a few. 

The Isle of Sheppey, while considered an island, isn’t quite as inconvenient to get to and our short drive over the bridge is proof of that. As we arrive back on the soil we are surrounded by rolling farmland, wild meadows and protected wetlands. It’s a pleasant surprise and I’m filled with optimism about our destination.

With an AA rosette to its name, The Ferry House Inn is firmly pinned on the map of Sheppey but not only for its culinary accolades. The impressive 16th-century venues’ newest additions of the Coach House, Farmhouse Cottage and additional treatment rooms make it a popular place to stay for a truly restorative escape for city dwellers; so popular that their wedding calendar is fully booked until the end of 2022. Its strong connection to the local area is clear from the moment you drive up to the entrance; homebred ponies and their foals grazing amongst sheep and other livestock, while polytunnels and vegetable gardens surround the estate. Almost everything is grown, farmed and foraged on site here – even the award-winning spirits distilled from their own grains –  and whatever can’t be grown on-site, is sourced from a handpicked selection of Kent’s best local producers.

We’re shown to our room in the Coach House which is complete with an imposing super-king, four-poster bed and boutique-style furnishings. We’re even gifted with some homemade chocolate cookies to enhance the homely feel! The room is elegant and cosy while the bathroom holds a grand, freestanding copper bath and is finished with bespoke made toiletries. It sounds ridiculous, but I had to keep washing my hands because the smell of the soap was irresistible. After putting our feet up for a brief minute, it’s time we made it over to the Farmhouse for dinner. 

The Ferry House philosophy of “plot to plate, field to fork, grain to grass” really shines through the menu as it’s introduced with the names of Head Chef, James Pilcher, and Head Gardener, Natalia Read. Starters such as ‘Estate Pigeon with Apple & Celeriac Slaw’ and ‘Smoked Pollock Tortellini with Brown Crab Bisque’ tickle our taste buds, while I am then swayed to choosing the ‘Garden Asparagus with Wild Garlic & Feta’ because of my meatier choice of main. I have to say, I don’t pick up on the flavours of wild garlic here but perhaps that’s because it is overtaken by the flavours of feta, dill and toasted pine nuts. The tortellini on the other hand, is quite special with five golden bullions filled with pollock and swimming in a delectable crab bisque. 

For our main, both my guest and I can’t resist the Beef Onglet, which is complete with garden asparagus, wild garlic, marinated anchovies and garden rhubarb dressing. Similarly, the taste of wild garlic and a garden rhubarb dressing is lacking but the dish is lifted by the saltiness of the anchovies. The dish is surprisingly light and I almost wish we could order some sides alongside, but what this did mean is we can go all out on desserts.

When it comes to desserts we’re seriously stumped at a decision and charmed by three of those on the menu. Who could possibly decide between ‘Garden Rosehip with Cardamon Cream & Beurre Noisette Shortbread’, ‘Garden Rhubarb with Vanilla, Miso & Meringue’ and the ‘Chocolate Delice with Hazelnuts & Salted Caramel’? To our delight, the lovely Amber recommends we try all three. The world needs more waitresses like Amber; those with zero judgement and candour when it comes to personal recommendations – none of that “Oh well the chocolate is the most popular”… of course it is, because half of the population are raging chocolate fiends that fear going off-piste! I don’t want to hear that if you’re my server; I want YOUR recommendation, and Amber (despite only being at The Ferry House for two weeks) was still able to give an authentic answer.

I’m slightly concerned when three generous portions of sweet treats arrive on our table, but as we dip our teaspoons into each of the bowls, I have no regrets in going with all three. Each of the dishes brings something unique, from the florals of the rosehip and cardamon cream (which almost resembles panna cotta), to the tartness of the garden rhubarb and umami of the miso. This course is the serious star of the show, though I am now firmly in a food coma and in need of a lie-down. A-ha! We have just the thing – an enormous copper freestanding bath to get back to. Following a bath and a little walk around the lovely estate, it’s time for bed. 

Day 2 at The Ferry House Inn, Kent

Usually, I get a pitiful 5-6 hours sleep every night which is enough to get by, but definitely not what any medical professional would recommend. My sleep on the night of our stay at The Ferry House however, would be considered A* at GCSE (have they even graded in this way anymore? Am I starting to show my age?). I think this is thanks to our well-equipped room with the enormous, super-king sized, four-poster bed and an oscillating fan to keep us cool throughout the night. You know what it’s usually like sharing a bed in the Summer – you fight for space, you wake up clammy-skinned and feeling really groggy. Well not on this occasion! Both of us feel so invigorated and ready to tackle our tough morning ahead: a morning in The Ferry House Treatment Rooms. But first, it’s time for breakfast. 

I don’t tend to eat breakfast but skipping breakfast at a B&B is a slightly rogue move, so we head back to The Farm House for our morning spread. Similarly, all ingredients are homemade, homegrown, home farmed, and the menu reads with all the usual suspects; an honest English or a veggie breakfast for those with a leaning toward the classics, Eggs Royale/Benedict, and fluffy pancakes with streaky bacon and honey for those with a sweet tooth. 

We’re given a bowl of yoghurt and garden fruit to start with. It’s a delightful touch to have mason jars filled with seeds, homemade granola and jams set on the table, which we’re free to top our bowls with. Given I lean more towards the savoury side, the sweetness from the fresh fruits and jams is enough to satiate my cravings. Now when I say I don’t tend to eat breakfast, on this occasion I’m prepared to go all out and despite finishing my bowl of yoghurt, I’m absolutely not going to turn down the rest of the food that comes my way. So it’s time to dig into our “main” breakfast.

My friend goes for the ‘Kentish Breakfast’ while I tuck into the ‘Home Smoked Fish’. This arrives complete with Garden Greens and Toasted Home-made Bread. I’m always on the hunt for some sort of nutritional goodness, so the garden greens are a nice touch and whatever the seafood butter is – I’m here for its salty umami-ness. The breakfast on the other hand looks impressive with the usual suspects, alongside a particularly handsome-looking sausage, homemade beans and a potato rosti. 

Following our feast and unlimited cups of tea or coffee, we’re now heading to The Treatment Rooms for our Hot Stone Massage (I should’ve considered this when leaning over for that 3rd cup of coffee! But thanks to our tummies being so full it’s surprisingly pleasant to lie down on our fronts). A hot stones massage is where smooth, heated stones are placed on your spine and distributed across key acupressure points, using slow and gentle movements to roll out areas of discomfort. For me, this is definitely around my neck and shoulders after working from a laptop for 8 hours every day – again, not what any medical professional would endorse. This is just one of the massage treatments available but the delightful Katie will tailor her techniques to you, so you can mix things up and target specific areas which might need more attention. These can be anything from long strokes to circular movements, tapping to kneading.

My friend and I are also avid gym-goers, thus the hot stones massage offers the opportunity to melt away that muscular tension we’re so accustomed to. It’s not quite the same as a sports massage where muscular knots and pain points are manipulated to free movement in that area. Instead, the hot stones are far more relaxing with the soothing qualities from the heat working to slowly release tension and promote relaxation. Unlike previous treatments I’ve had for sporting-related niggles, I actually manage to enjoy the hour and I somewhat wish it is even longer! And it’s not only good for the muscles. Secondary benefits of this massage are the release of toxins, improved radiance of your skin and even improved blood circulation. Overall these physical effects can help promote a sense of calm, good sleep, and even reduce the symptoms of autoimmune diseases. What’s not to love? 

I walk out ready to drive to Brighton feeling truly spoilt and rejuvenated. If you’re visiting The Ferry House, do it right and embrace all that the secluded Swale estuary has to offer. Get out into the unspoilt countryside and take to the surrounding footpaths and cycle routes, come across landscapes where wildlife flourishes (you may even come across one of the best bird of prey viewpoints in the country), all before working up an appetite for indulging in all of the fresh food which has been farmed just metres from where you are eating. To the friendly team at The Ferry House Inn, thank you for having us!