Comprising equal parts gin, vermouth, and Campari, the herbaceous scarlet concoction we call a negroni, is, (according to Italian bar lore) revealing in its true allure upon the third sip. The ultimate acquired taste of any cocktail connoisseur, this drink, in the past five years, has caused a real stir in the drinking and dining scene. What was once a subtle nod to bartenders that you were versed in your preferences and adept at articulating them, the order of a negroni has now become a trend, a signal that you, with this drink in hand, can embody all the suavity of Al Pacino and all the sexiness of Sophia Loren.  

Characterised by its botanical bitterness, ordering this drink is one thing, but authentically enjoying a negroni is quite another. Enter TOZI, Victoria, on hand to ease you into the signature taste of a negroni with sheer style and sophistication. But first, let me let you in on a secret: the first time I ordered a negroni I couldn’t finish it. I consider myself fairly well versed with cocktails and I’m half Italian. I presumed a negroni would be easily knocked back – oh how wrong I was. Perhaps I didn’t get to the third sip – but since that first glass, it has taken a while, and several well-made negronis, for me to get to the point when I could authentically order one. All that might have been different if my first negroni was at TOZI.

Venetian slang for a group of friends, ‘TOZI’, promises a taste of ‘authentic Italy’ from the get-go. It is, however, very much a London restaurant. White-wash walls tower high, an open kitchen takes up the entirety of one side of the restaurant and on the parallel side, floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto one of Victoria’s terraced streets. The clatter of the kitchen and vibrant chatter of other diners echo all around this vast space, which is wonderfully full for a Thursday night. Although dissimilar from the restaurants I have visited in Venice, it is full of all the same ‘good vibes’ and atmosphere. One of the first, and most important, questions we are asked is if we would like a negroni. So specific is this question, I feel I cannot refuse – and for good reason – for Savoia Vino Aperitvo has partnered with TOZI, to celebrate their rich Italian culture and Savoia’s 100% natural ingredients, with a selection of low-ABV and vegan cocktails. 

TOZI Victoria

Just like any good London restaurant, there is a theatrical element to our meal at TOZI, and this comes in the form of our negronis, which are mixed and stirred for us personally, on a drinks trolley by master mixologist Marco Bullegas, directly in front of our table. Marco mixes us two different negronis, explaining with expertise how they will each have unique tastes. One has been aged in an oak barrel and the other a clay carafe. I am cautious. Marco reassures us they will be divine – so I hesitantly take a sip. He is correct. Mixed perfectly, and added to a cube-shaped block of ice and decorated with a curl of orange peel, it is the most exquisite negroni I have ever tasted. Marco was not exaggerating. The drink is refreshing, beautifully bitter, herby, a bit rooty – think liquorice root – and then there are some deep dark fruit flavours. The gin is present too, so there’s that classic juniper tang, notes of lemon and coriander seed. Plus, it looks così bello on my Insta stories. 

When it comes to food, TOZI’s concept is Venetian ‘cicchetti’ or small plates. Ideal for those that prioritise flavour and love to share, we order four between the two of us. A lover of ‘raw’ foods, I select two dishes from this section of the menu: the seared beef carpaccio with grilled artichokes and parmesan shavings, alongside the tuna tartare with chilli, lime and rocket. Both dishes arrive in exceptional style, beautifully presented like pretty mosaics, carefully laid out. They are even more exquisite on the tongue as they are to the eye. The beef is full of rich flavour, and the texture is melt-in-the-mouth smooth. The same goes for the tuna, which is a delight in the mouth, delicate in taste, which is elevated by the sharpness of the chilli, lime and rocket while simply sublime when it comes to texture on the tongue.

Our other two dishes come in the form of avocado, parmesan, radish and baby gem salad, and octopus with chickpea purée, fennel and fried capers. Needless to say, the salad is beautifully fresh, the avocado perfectly ripe – the avocado of dreams – a great compliment to all other dishes on the table. The standout small plate was for me, the octopus. Cooked to perfection, this seafood delicacy gives that satisfying ‘squeak’ on the teeth while still being silky and tender. It is packed full of that distinctive octopus flavour, elevated all the more by the kick of the fennel, the tang of the capers and muskiness of the chickpea puree. We set about this feast of four, devouring the entirety of the lot alongside a basket of fresh, warm sourdough dipped in quality olive oil and salt flakes – bellissima. 

We opt for two more, what seem like slightly larger, dishes from the ‘grilled and baked’ section of the menu: aubergine parmigiana and baby chicken with roasted potatoes and chilli. The parmigiana is gorgeously rich and filling, heavy on the tomato yet not sloppy or overdone. It makes a nice, hearty contrast to the lighter dishes we have just enjoyed. The chicken is flavoursome and the potatoes are brilliantly moreish. In true Italian style, they are small, golden, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside – elevated all the more by a seasoning of fresh rosemary. 

Although comfortably full, we are never a pair to turn down a pud. So, we order two: pear and yoghurt semifreddo with toffee and hazelnut crumble, alongside a fig and almond tart with vanilla ice cream. Again, these two dishes come beautifully presented and are thoroughly Instagram worthy. The pear semifreddo is beautifully light, creamy and fruity, whereas the tart is indulgent and heavy – complimented nicely by the luxurious vanilla ice cream.

Overall, if you’re looking to curb your negroni cravings or would like to start being someone that drinks them – then TOZI is your place. If you love delectable small plates and sharing with friends – the TOZI is your place too.