If we’re honest, Chinese food has never really gotten a fair rap in most of the UK. Across the nation, Chinese food is one of the most loved and frequently ordered types of takeaway, and yet for most, it begins and ends with luminous-orange sauces, laden with sugar, stodgy egg-friend rice, and various battered meats and vegetables. While indisputably popular, this heavily-Westernized version of Cantonese food is nearly unidentifiable when compared to true Chinese cuisine. It’s the authentic stuff that deserves the attention- fiery Sichuan dishes, delicate Cantonese dim sum, incredible Jiangsu sweet and sour fish, and of course the redolent cumin, chilli, and salt of the Xi’an region.
It was the spirit of this quest for authenticity that we were channelling as we arrived at Murger Han Chinese Restaurant in Mayfair. The first Xi’an restaurant to open in London, Murger Han has been serving up authentic flavours since 2014, though outside of the Chinese community in London it seems to still be a hidden gem. We arrived on a Tuesday evening; hardly primetime, and yet Murger Han is already bustling with a mix of Chinese students and in the know locals. We silently thank god we have a reservation, and after making our presence known, we’re quickly shown to our booth.
Never ones to hang around, we get stuck in quickly. Our orders were based entirely on recommendations from the restaurant- I’ve always believed in leaning into new experiences, especially food-related ones. To our delight (and to our neighbouring table’s shock), all of our food came out at the same time, causing our poor table to groan slightly under the weight of our order. It quickly became apparent that Murger Han takes value for money quite seriously.
First, the appetisers. Our fried diced chicken came piled high and served simply with some citrus slices on the side; the chicken was fresh and tender, the batter crispy, and was served covered in spring onion, all factors that made this dish a success. Vegetable gyoza were perfect representatives of the dish, their ever-so-slightly crisp exteriors giving way to a pleasing vegetable filling on every bite.
Energised, we moved on to the eponymous ‘murgers’. Though new to us, the ‘murger’ is to Xi’an what the burger is in the west; well-loved, and bloody everywhere! We tried both the vegetable ‘murger’ as well as the recommended pork and duck ‘murger’. Unlike the familiar burger, the ‘murger’ substitutes a mildly crunchy flatbread for a fluffy bun. This works well and adds an interesting dimension when the filling is properly sauced (as with the pork and duck), but not so well without (as was our vegetable one). To their credit, the pork and duck bun was pretty damn good!
Working quickly to get to everything, we moved on to the big boys; the noodle boys. Biang Biang noodles are wheat flour based, and are hand-pulled to create thick, broad and silky ribbons- though daunting to attack due to their thickness and length, they are incredible and manage to stand up to even robust flavours. I went for the ‘biang biang’ three ways, with diced pork, egg, and tomato served over pak choi in a spicy broth.
Despite my slight aversion to scrambled egg outside of breakfast, this was an absolute flavour bomb. The spice of the broth was modulated by the thickness of the noodles and the cooling taste of tomato, while the egg and pork added some serious umami to the mix. Abandoning all self-respect, I asked for a fork- the chopsticks were no match for the ‘biang biang’ noodles (at least not in my hands).
We also had some very tasty cocktails, and you would do well to order one or two if you visit, however, the food is the standout here by far.
We left Murger Han happy, more knowledgeable about Xi’an cuisine, and absolutely stuffed to our gills- what more could you ask for? This little spot is great to drop in for a quick bite, or book a corner table for a catch up with friends if that’s more your speed. Just make sure you give them a try!
