After living in London, you start to realise that while the big-name famous venues and bars are fun (and definitely worth a visit or two), the hidden gems and the neighbourhood bars are where it’s all really happening. If I was from an older generation, a neighbourhood bar for me would probably evoke the famous bar from Cheers, where everyone knows your name, greets you on arrival and you have a regular spot. Kitsch, but not the sort of place I’d frequent.
For me, a neighbourhood bar is less about everyone knowing each other than it is about quality, reasonably priced food & drink, friendly staff, and the relaxed atmosphere that comes with an entire venue full of people just kicking back and enjoying life. I am pleased to say that Ever After, an unassuming little bar in Hoxton Square, delivers on all counts and then some.
I rocked up at 6pm on a sunny Tuesday- not exactly prime time for a bar, but the welcome was nonetheless friendly and instantly put me at ease. After settling in and taking a look at the menus, it immediately became clear that the Ever After team knew what they were doing. My first order of business was a drink- the waitress was happy to make a recommendation for the Sherry Cobbler- a classic American cocktail believed to have originated in the 1830’s. The cocktail came out quickly, and went down easily. Savoury, tart, and sweet in equal measures made for a refreshing summer drink that still packed a punch.
Ever After Bar Hoxton Square: The Menu
My thirst sated (temporarily), I turned my attention to the food. In some places, the phrase “bar food” conjures images of bought-in burgers and overcooked potato wedges; happily, London bar food is having a bit of a moment, and the menu was nothing short of delightful. A concise one-page list of small plates, nothing here was priced higher than £10- a welcome sight in London! A brief glance turned up familiar dishes like beef tartare and pork belly tacos, though these were no tired classics.
I ordered the beef tartare almost out of curiosity, with a perfectly stirred vodka martini to accompany. The dish was artfully presented, a healthy nest of lightly dressed raw beef with a golden, wobbly egg yolk sitting in the centre. Mixed among the beef were small pieces of diced gherkin, the gentle acidity and sourness of which provided balance to the rich yolk and beef proteins. Long, housemade croutons were fanned pleasingly on the side of the plate, the perfect vessels for bite after delicious bite. It tasted like the best burger you’ve ever had- but in a refreshing summer form. The vodka martini was excellent, cold fury in a glass that goes down as smooth as silk. Big thumbs up so far.
Out of a sense of duty to the vegetarians among us, my next dish was a whole burrata served with rough-cut vegetables and basil oil. This was a beautiful dish- the creamy burrata sat atop rough chunks of cucumber and radish, lightly seasoned and topped with basil leaves. Burrata, much like bar food, is also having a moment- you can get a burrata at most trendy small plate spots, and nine out of ten times I will be perfectly happy with the standard olive oil, basil leaves, and seasoning. But not Ever After. This burrata was elevated to the next level, with a fresh, vibrantly green basil oil; the perfect visual and flavour accompaniment.
Sated, I kicked back with a Brighter Later cocktail. This was a gorgeous, smokey blend of whiskey, Japanese genmaicha tea, and umeshu, a sweet and sour plum liquor that added depth and a lingering complexity on the tongue. This was an old fashioned that had grown up and done some travelling, and I could have had another three. I stayed long after I intended, chatting with the incredible staff and, unknowingly, the owner. The passion and enthusiasm for the venue was apparent- a neighbourhood bar with accessibly priced yet elevated food and drink, just as suited to all-day drinking as an impromptu dinner. Alas, my time that evening had to come to an end, but only temporarily- I’ll be back this weekend, and I suspect many more times after.
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