Like I once did, you may believe Stratford is a place incongruous to luxury dining experiences and beautifully designed venues. A location destined to be at the mercy of two-for-one-bottomless brunches at faceless chains and the cheeky hungover Nandos, it may seem all too unappealing upon first mention. But let me disprove this theory. As I cautiously emerged from the overground and weaved my way around the crowds to find a lift located in the Stratford Hotel, even the address, ‘Manhattan Loft Gardens’, promised far more than my preconceptions, and residing at the top, was a place that would prove these utterly wrong: Allegra. 

A cosmopolitan oasis in the sky

Rising dreamily above the throng of bustling travellers and shoppers below, Allegra restaurant in Stratford lifts anyone that dislikes Stratford into heady new heights of sophistication – a world (seven floors) away from the rabble and raucousness below. Stepping out of the lift, you’re met with gleaming surfaces, botanical green plants and floor-to-ceiling windows are offset against warm low-hanging lighting, with nods to an art deco style. Adequately spaced sprawling tables with squashy yet neat seating face a lengthy marble-topped bar, which stretches to a pinpoint against panoramic views of London’s skyline. A bountiful array of glowing bottles of bespoke gins, spirits and liquors adorn the wall behind the bar, waiting to be crafted into cocktails, plus a selection of Champagne, fizz and wines ensure that guests will never go thirsty. 

Confirming this assumption, I take a seat at the bar and before me a flute of Champagne is filled as I wait for a friend who is always late. Unlike other restaurant visits, I have no desperate desire for her to arrive just yet, as I relax and settle in. As I sit, I ponder over the one missing ingredient so far – ambience. Allegra is almost too perfect, it lacks a little warmth, and could do with some lively background music, a little more chatter, a few more glasses clinking, some canned laughter and a sprinkling of extra soul to balance out it’s arguably over-manicured traits. 

Allegra restaurant Stratford

When it comes to food, Allegra claims to ‘traverse the classic and the creative’ through ‘contemporary, European food’. The arrival of our ‘snacks’ immediately solidified these claims as facts, not only beautifully presented but flawless in taste and texture too. The lunch menu is all about the small plates – an emphasis on bites bursting with unique flavour and innovative design and ingredients. I started with the Waldorf tarts with pickled walnuts and Colston Bassett. Sprinkled with shavings of this English cheese, these gorgeous little tarts looked almost fluffy in appearance, beautifully dainty and light. Upon first bite, the pastry flaked away into the mouth with a satisfying yet light crunch to reveal the distinct fruity flavour of pear, an ultimate partner to the savoury strength of the cheese.

Contemporary European food

Next up was Allegra’s fried chicken, complemented by mustard fruit, pickles and aioli. When placed on our table, an earnest waiter boldly assures us that this is the ‘best fried chicken in London’, and although I don’t claim to be the authority on this, I would agree him. A crunchy, flavourful skin pulls away to reveal tender chicken magnificently cooked and seasoned – topped with creamy aioli, delicious. 

Allegra restaurant Stratford

Allegra’s pièce de résistance was without doubt the pistachio choux with chicken liver, black garlic and preserved mandarin. Nailing the ratio of savoury and sweet, the rich meatiness of the liver set off by the sweetness of distinct and heady mandarin. It came encased by a faultlessly formed puffy choux, sprinkled with crunchy pistachio. A well-thought-out demonstration of balance and proportion in both flavour and texture.  

The main event

Starters included Allegra’s famously good bread service with creamy cultured butter and green sauce, ideal for dolloping on top. Beautifully fluffy and fresh. Freshness comes in further abundance with the celeriac and beetroot carpaccio with sweet pecans and pickled pear, but the flavour really punches in full force when I dip into the pollock with charlotte potato, pickled onion, seaweed and chive. The fish dish is cooked to perfection in both taste and texture, drenched in the sauce alongside a forkful of not-to-hard-not-to-soft potato. Steak tartare with barbequed carrot and nasturtium follows- wholesome food full of flavour and creativity without being overpowering.

Allegra restaurant Stratford 

For main, I had the barbequed carrot and grain salad, carrot and vadouvan curry, although very good, this was somewhat overshadowed by the wow factor of the preceding dishes. Our visit to Allegra is rounded off with a final flavour high when we slip our spoons into dessert and share two plates. One milk chocolate, pecan and salted caramel and one a whipped rice pudding with rhubarb and stem ginger. I cautiously try the rice pudding as the only flavour I dislike is ginger, but this is a rare exception of pleasure. A spice that can be overpowering, in this, it is a discreet undertone and at sensational odds with the creamy comfort of the pudding. As for the chocolate, yet another triumph for Allegra.

Allegra restaurant Stratford is a must-visit.