Nestled between buildings on The Broadway, the soft glowing lights of The Clock N8 gently spilled out onto the street. Walking inside felt like a hug provided by candlelight. Exposed brick, warming wood finishes and the large seemingly soundproof windows meant we could watch the hustle and bustle silently pass outside whilst feeling like bugs in rugs inside. 

Modern British Cuisine

Now the term Modern British cuisine does at times confuse me, and my experience of such is often nice (if a little uninspiring) dishes deconstructed or architecturally placed on large white plates. Having had a brief glance at the menu at The Clock N8 on route, it suggested to me that a real attempt at Modern British was at the forefront of Faruk Shalaku’s cuisine. With notable inspiration drawn from his previous positions at prestigious dining establishments across London and his extensive knowledge of international food trends. 

Resisting the excitement of trying not to order the entire menu as soon as we’d sat down, it would have been remiss of me not to wet the whistle with the signature ‘Crouchender’ cocktail. Not only for the attractive blend of ingredients but the heartwarming back story that comes with it. Five pounds of every Crouchender is donated to Hornsey Food Bank, so you really are drinking for charity. And in true charitable style (and even before ordering food) I’d very quickly donated ten pounds. Surprisingly, and to my delight, the bourbon rum-based cocktail was uncharacteristically light and refreshing. With a sourness that tested your ability to keep a straight face. The perfect balance of flavour would no doubt lead to an unbalanced walk home. 

Without further ado (and before too many Crouchenders) we were presented with our first dish. Three delicately placed oxtail arancini. I’m a sucker for those crispy Italian rice balls and these little flavour bombs did not disappoint. The richness of the oxtail felt luxurious and the cleansing cut through from the basil meant I greedily could have had a handful more. My decision not to be greedy however was rewarded by our starters of wood pigeon. Delightfully gamey yet tender, with an earthiness provided by the beetroot puree and a pallet cleansing chaser of blackcurrant jus. The crispy lollipop leg allowed a break between mouthfuls of pigeon creating an overall dynamic and exciting dish.

Before progressing deeper into the menu I couldn’t resist one particular starter and this is why; beef bone marrow, shin ravioli, and truffle. If you know you know, but if you don’t just think of the last time someone made you an offer you really couldn’t refuse. The bone marrow was silky and indulgent, and the rich shin filled was packed perfectly into al dente ravioli parcels. 

The culinary journey so far meant there were high expectations for the main event and they were quickly exceeded by an 18 hour slow braised feather blade steak and roasted barbary duck breast. The steak gave up its form with a touch of a fork, collapsing into beautifully tender mouthfuls, and unlike my attempts at cooking kale at home which often result in a bouncy unchewable mess, the buttery kale at The Clock N8 was creamy and light. The smokey garlic mash and braising juices were delightfully abundant and the suggestion of truffle hovering over the dish exuded fine dining.

The duck breast was art on a plate, beautifully cooked to medium-rare and in a marriage with a plethora of textures and complimenting flavours. The pear and blackcurrant accents on the dish amplified the richness of the duck breast and the croquette created a bold textural switch up to stilton, chestnut and onion.

To say I’d been on a texture and flavour exploration across Modern British cuisine would be an understatement and anyone wishing for the same should be sure to let the warm lights of The Clock N8 usher them in. I left with my knowledge of ‘Modern British Cuisine’ revitalised and having enjoyed the attentive and personable atmosphere created by the team. Sign yourself up for some Crouchenders and great food in a fine dining yet truly relaxed setting – you won’t regret it. 

Words by Tom Glover.