London Restaurant Review: Penny Squares

A brand new and utterly unique dining experience now glamorously adorns London’s infamous East End. Recognising not only the enthralling British history and culinary creations that came with the local people that called this area home, but also the melting pot of cultures that settled there over the centuries, Penny Squares now pays homage to these characters and their extraordinary dishes. A short walk from Aldgate East tube station, Penny Squares sits neatly at the bottom of Canopy by Hilton London City hotel. A slick and stylish affair that boasts the best of modern, industrial-style interiors with glass window frontage and leafy green botanical plants to break up the neutral tones of the furniture and decor, this modern dining dream is set to impress as soon as you walk in.


Greeted by a charismatic front-of-house who guides us to our table while weaving his way amongst the excited chatter and clinking of glasses from the Friday night crowd of guests, we sit at a table with bench-come-sofa style seating which oozes a beautifully fresh and clean newness I am eager to absorb. We are immediately handed a meticulously created wine list and with the guidance of our host select an Italian white wine. Crisp and refreshing, it arrives at our table in gleaming, large glasses ripe for cheersing and sure to let out a tuneful musical sound upon doing so. We decide to share the hazelnut harissa, which comes alongside warm, fresh sesame breadsticks, satisfyingly snappable and perfect for dipping. The harissa itself hits the flavour sweet-spot, a perfectly balanced combination of sweet lifted by aromatic savoury spices. Thought to originate from Tunisia, the harissa is the first of many dishes that are tributes to the vast array of cultures responsible for bringing different foods, recipes and flavours to this area over the centuries.

Penny Squares

Moving onto the mains, and somewhat swayed by our server who insists I have the red gurnard which comes with marinated taro and garlic spinach, as well as being adequately drenched in lemongrass and ginger-infused lobster sauce, I am delighted with his suggestion. The fish, a meat that is easy to overcook, arrives pearly white in colour and is meltingly soft in texture, falling apart beautifully with every slide of the fork. The delicate taste of the fish is complemented by the strong flavours of garlic, ginger and lemongrass, a divine trio of a combination that has me finishing every last morsel of the dish. My dinner-date, a devout vegan, has opted for the tamarind glazed, grilled aubergine, which is presented as a true art-form, decorated with (usually feta crumb), pomegranate seeds, toasted pine nuts and molasses, and sits in a puddle of a sweet, thick, tahini and date puree. My eyes get the better of me and I sample this divine veggie dish, which tastes just as gorgeous as it looks. 

Penny Squares

Although contently full, there is always room for dessert. This comes in the form of rose and lime meringue with milk crisp and strawberry sorbet. A real lover of floral flavours, the rose meringue is like no meringue I have ever tasted before. The delicate rose flavour is in no way overpowering or synthetic, but absolute heaven on the tongue and to the nose, perfectly complemented by the zingy, zesty bite of the lime sauce which is daubed artistically around the plate. My vegan dinner date also has the strawberry sorbet, which comes beautifully presented in the middle of a rainbow of fruit slices and pretty violet floral foliage. We both agree that the impactful and refreshing, strawberry sorbet is utterly sublime and has us smacking our lips for more icy pink spoonfuls. As always, I tie up my meal with a flat white. Of course, Penny Squares surpasses my ‘good coffee’ test and serves up a strong cup of the good-stuff in a trendy earthenware coffee cup complete with a foamy top. 

London RestaurantsTo conclude, Penny Squares is the ultimate combination of slick and sophisticated 21st-century  luxury dining mixed with traditional foods and recipes that have been carefully crafted into magnificent culinary masterpieces, packed full of flavours, which ooze both history and culture.  

Olivia Riccini

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