London Bridge – you’re in the thick of city life, this is not the place for slowing down or looking around. This is the place for keeping the pace – fast, fun and fleeting – it’s a pleasure to be here but not for long. The hustle and bustle of a city hard at work, this is an area which sees the routine of thousands of commutes turn to the post-graft sighs of days spent hard at work. It is here these people flood to, the streets upon an evening, seeking pubs, bars and restaurants at which they can soothe their weary souls. An antidote they need to try? Brigade Bar & Kitchen: a pioneering take on food which takes the word ‘brasserie’ to a whole new level.
Taking a right out of London Bridge’s busy tube station, I dodge my way through the post-work boozers, the sound of laughter and camaraderie almost carrying me to my destination. Before I delve into all the ambience and foodie details, let me tell you about the ethos and vision that sits at the heart of the business. Opened in September 2011 by chef founder Simon Boyle, the Brigade Bar & Kitchen has embedded social purpose by embracing vulnerable individuals, offering them the opportunity to work alongside their talented chefs. Working in partnership with the Beyond Food Foundation, Brigade helps to provide training opportunities thus supporting people whose lives have unravelled and have fallen on hard times. In the 12 years since opening, Brigade has had a long-lasting, positive impact, helping to restore thousands of people’s dignity by offering those in extreme need a real sense of purpose via the programme.
Brigade is first and foremost, a good restaurant. Full to the brim with tables of guests, a particularly busy tableau for a Tuesday night, the revelries, laughter and clinking glasses scintillate around the open room. The eye is drawn to the main stage: the open kitchen. Sitting at the back next to a big bar, this window frames chefs transfixed on their work. Flames flare up from the grill and the noise and drama of the kitchen floats out to entangle with the rest of the diners and waiting staff that swiftly go to and fro about their work.
I watch this buzz play out around me as I sit waiting for a friend and pour over the wine list. Brigade has a selection of fantastic wines from across the globe, plus a tantalising cocktail menu – tempting those who may need them most after a busy day. As soon as my guest arrives, we set about the starters. Dishes are fairly priced and there is no pretension. Clean, unadorned interiors include plain wood tables and bare brick walls, allowing for the idea that here, good times and good food are priority. To start, I opt for the hot smoked salmon with whipped horseradish and fennel slaw. The distinctive anise flavour of the fennel is what makes the ultimate flavour trio when combined with the tang of the horseradish, creamy in texture, and the beautifully cooked salmon. A toasted crouton is added in for extra crunch and visual elaboration, making this a brilliant start to the meal.
Seeking the advice of the maître d’, who came up trumps when selecting our wine, I ask his advice for my main. “The special,” he replies without hesitation, “tonight it is woodfire monkfish tails with smoked fingerling potatoes, charred broccoli, macadamia nuts and beurre noisette.” Without really taking in what he has said but completely trusting his judgement, I nod in agreement – a great decision. The potatoes are as gorgeous as good potatoes can be, oiled, golden and crispy but soft on the inside, not in the slightest bit dry. The broccoli has that crunch of freshness, not overcooked, and the soft white monkfish falls apart exquisitely, soaked in the beurre noisette- a perfectly salty, buttery, sensation in the mouth. A stunning concoction of flavours and textures.
Although contently full from our mains and side of tender stem broccoli with teriyaki and sesame seeds, which hits that sweet and savoury ratio with ease, we are easily tempted by desserts. I go for the apple and blackberry crumble with vegan and vanilla ice cream and this time, it is my dinner date that settles for the advice of the maître d’ with his dessert: sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch and stem ginger ice cream. Both desserts go down an absolute treat; the sweet crunch of the crumble and the tantalisingly tart flavour of the apple and blackberry being a flavour highlight for me.
To finish we order cocktails. With a list so creative, how could we not? Two ‘firefighters’ arrive at the table: chilli-infused Ocho Blanco tequila and Ancho Reyes with agave syrup and lime juice. A stylish take on a spicy margarita – the ultimate hot hit to ensure this meal goes out with a fiery bang.
