Some trips are all about excitement and escape, while others are about rest and relaxation. This August, I found an idyllic combination of all four elements, lying concealed behind the walls of a place that started life as a shipping merchant’s manor house in 1913. As we flew westbound down motorways that ripped through patchwork fields sprawling over Cornwall’s gentle hillsides, we raced away from black clouds towards a horizon where the sea met the sky and the falling rain formed an amethystine veil that promised all the surreal beauty a Cornish seascape is so adored for.

Eponymously named after the man that brought it to life, Merchants Manor towers proudly amongst pine trees in one of Falmouth’s avenues that lead down to a sparkling bay. As we crunch over gravel with our weekend bags slung over our shoulders, it is immediately apparent before even stepping over the threshold that Merchants Manor embodies a persona that encompasses not only Cornwall’s salt-kissed beach-life serenity, but also a sleek, understated sophistication without pretension. It is this flawless concoction of traits that have defined Merchants Manor’s unassuming coolness, an effortless persona that has seeped its way down to the bones of the place, glinting from every crevice – from the decor to the food, to the fact this sanctuary is exclusively for adults; right down to each member of staff we meet. All beam genuine smiles, smiles that don’t have to directly tell me these people love their time spent working here. Perhaps it is a Cornish thing, that living in a place so beautiful has made their happiness so infectious and their attitude so warm and kind.

‘You are staying in the Lookout,’ she grins, excited for us. The Lookout is Merchants Manor’s luxury, private, ocean-view apartment; it sleeps four guests and is neatly separate from the rooms of the hotel without being isolated. The game should have been given away by our guide’s grin as she led us to the Lookout, but nothing could have prepared us for the sheer elation that struck us like excited children as soon as we laid eyes on our abode. The Lookout sits perched up high as if upon the manor’s shoulder, it spreads itself in such a position that fits its name perfectly – looking out across a panoramic tableau of pines and whitewash houses that sweep down towards the ocean, upon which boats bob until they disappear into the horizon. And what’s a breathtaking view without a balcony? The balcony is over-generous in space, offering our own Jacuzzi (heating up for the evening ahead) and wooden loungers perfect for sipping coffee in the morning sunlight. This becomes one with the inside; a wall of huge glass doors flood the interior with natural light, and the foliage of the garden below offers an Edenic feeling to our sanctuary. 

Glassy and contemporary with a constant call to the outdoors and the ocean, The Lookout’s interiors allow the spectacular Cornish outside to be bought in with a crisply modern take on nautical style. Our new haven offers two sumptuous king-size beds just waiting to swallow us up and send us into dreamy sleep, a lengthy, open-plan kitchen-come-sitting room complete with an oak table and all modern amenities, and two stunning bathrooms. Each bathroom boasts a walk-in rainfall shower with big solid brass taps, frosted windows for brilliant light and aesthetically tiled walls to further carry Merchant’s calming coolness.  

Merchants Manor is a place where heritage is kept alive, where corridors are filled with one-of-a-kind works of local artists depicting typical Cornish scenes and landmarks, capturing the county’s unique character and history. The culture of Cornwall is something that lies very close to Aiden Blakely-May’s heart. Head Chef at Merchants Manor’s Rastella restaurant, Aiden is Cornish born and raised, returning to his hometown after learning the tricks of his trade under Michelin-starred chefs at acclaimed eateries. ‘Sustainable Cornish produce is the crux of everything we create in the kitchen,’ Aiden tells me, ‘Our menu is seasonal and constantly changing. It is crucial to me that we showcase the best of this county – from our famous seafood right down to the selected wines from local vineyards and strawberries from nearby farms. Freshness and flavour is at our fingertips, and this magnificent locality is our strongest influence.’  That evening we indulge in Rastella’s tasting menu, consisting of no less than seven divine courses. No matter your tastes, any diner will be all the more enthralled by Aiden’s concoctions as each is bought out, devoured and replaced – every one as uniquely exquisite as the next. An optional wine flight can also be paired alongside the food, a selection of vino meticulously curated to bring out the very best of flavour. 

Every dish tasted even better than it looked, so please take heed – even if just for a meal, you must go. A highlight of the tasting menu was the native Falmouth Bay scallops, caressed with XO Sauce and chilli; sweet and tangy notes with a deep essence of the sea. Even the simplicity of the ‘six-year-old bread’ served with a perfect pebble of cultured butter, was so heavenly it had us sitting for a few minutes in silent, stunned appreciation. I could go on about Aiden and his team’s talent and how hearts, souls and the epitome of Cornish culture had been poured into every dish, but I will end with dessert – small but full of mighty flavour: a plate of clotted cream with Trevaski’s farm strawberries in the form of a delectable sorbet. This energy extended into the breakfast menu, a plethora of hearty and healthy morning favourites; from homemade granola and overnight oats, to my phenomenal Eggs Royale, with smoked salmon so rich in flavour and eggs so orangey golden, I will be thinking about them every morning for months.

Ready to adventure, we leave that morning so well taken care of, so well fed, so intoxicated by the heady wholesome beauty of Cornwall that even a cold, wet, rainy windy day spent at a vast expanse of glorious beach with sweeping sands and foaming blue waves, will not taint our euphoric moods by a pinprick. Aside from Cornwall’s array of paradisiacal beaches; there is plenty more to do during your stay, including exploring Falmouth itself: a coastal town crowned ‘spirit of the sea’ with its fascinating maritime heritage and just a short walk from the hotel. 

There is one key feature of Merchant’s Manor I am yet to touch upon. Although at its core a boutique hotel, this identity is combined with its duality of being a spa too. Taking opulent inspiration from the earthy tones and textures of the west coast’s beaches and soothing roar of the ocean, the treatment room envelops me into an atmosphere of sheer tranquillity in which I am able to truly relax and absorb the benefits of a lymphatic drainage massage from therapist Erin, who is unquestionably a master in her field. Feeling at peace after the spa treatment, I venture to yet another oasis Merchant’s Manor is home to- the 12m indoor heated pool mosaiced with azure tiles and sitting resplendent amongst leafy palms.

Our second and final night at Merchant’s Manor, we soak up every little bit of our evening, indulging once more in Aiden’s food from the al la carte menu and ending on a high in the bubbles of our hot Jacuzzi with a glass flute of Polgoon Sparkling Elderflower Wine in hand. A generous gift that sat ready to welcome us alongside a hamper of Cornish goodies when we arrived, I have already devoured the homemade scones, cream and jam as well as the loaf of sourdough and butter. Feeling invigorated, revived and in a serene state of happiness (although slightly bittersweet that we must leave our sanctuary in the morning) we clink our glasses together under a blanket of twinkling stars that glitter over the ocean in the distance – a cheers to Merchant’s Manor, a flawless fusion of tranquillity, divine food and quintessential Cornwall.