When the sun shines on London, it is a city rebirthed. The all-consuming, desperate need to make the most of this vibrant city while it warms up for summer in May’s promising golden rays is one I cannot escape. Fortunately, this hot bank holiday weekend I can relax, safe in the knowledge I will be soaking up the first beams of this new season in the garden at Home House.
Nestled in the heart of Marylebone lies a secret haven. Unless you’re one of the lucky ones, you won’t know it’s there. Allow me to let you in on this secret. Listen close. If you have never been before, you are likely to walk past the door. Home House sits in quiet, refined elegance on Portman Square. It is a place that doesn’t need to cry out for guests with a garish front, there isn’t even the smallest plaque to identify it – just a number ‘20’, because those who need to know about it, already do.
I eye up the huge, black doors and colonaded entrance, unsure that I am in the right place. Mysterious doesn’t even cover it. I push through and to both my relief and delight, walk into a marble reception room where I am greeted and signed in. I quickly realise that exclusivity is high up on Home House’s list of priorities, and this is something that has been imperative in maintaining it’s elite status.
At its core a prestigious member’s club, Home House was founded upon a steadfast relationship with the arts in 1998 – but this is a bond that goes back much further. Built at the request of Elizabeth, Countess of Home in 1773 to be a ‘sophisticated ‘Pavilion’ designed purely for enjoyment and entertainment’, art and grand aesthetic visuals run deep in both the structure of the building and the character it exudes. When it comes to architecture, Home House’s pièce de résistance is its staircase. A domed glass roof towers above me, beaming its spotlight onto swooping marble-clad walls, paintings, sculptures and ornate, twisted iron railings that curl down over three floors from top to bottom. I stop for the inevitable picture. Trust me, you won’t want to miss this one.
Since its first days in Georgian times, Home House has seen so much. It has welcomed and entertained a plethora of eccentric characters, artists and musicians – everyone from the infamous spy/art-historian-to-the-Queen, Sir Anthony Blunt (his loo seat hangs in the downstairs toilet) to Annie Lennox, who filmed her Georgian-esque music video for Walking on Broken Glass here in ‘92. Today, I am not here to be in the cool shadows of these ancient walls, but instead absorb the glorious garden. Stepping outside, I see that all the beauty of the interior has spilled through the huge glass doors out onto the terrace. Home House has unveiled its magic once more, offering members and their guests to make the most of London’s ethereal beauty in the sun.
Diners and drinkers sit around and underneath the extravagant ‘Raj Tent’, which acts as the heart of the garden. A lengthy bar takes up one side, and a huge Persian-style rug covers the space beneath the yellow glow of the sailcloth. I sit at my table and marvel at the splendour of it all, taking in a breathtaking floral display that climbs up the exterior of the house, while sipping on my first cocktail in this suntrap garden. In addition to the new food menu, Home House has unveiled a dedicated ‘Summer Spritz’ cocktail menu and thus a ‘Mediterranean Spritz’ sits coolly in my hand. This spritz is delightfully sweet. Citrusy and sugary, it is the perfect summery drink for my al-fresco experience: refreshing with a little bitterness in the aftertaste.
Reminiscent of those extravagant Georgian times, the clinking of glasses and chatter of happy diners basking in the sun reminds me that Home House has epicureanism running through its veins. Here, it cannot be escaped, and this has been further celebrated by the introduction of a weekend gourmet barbecue menu. This summer marks the first season under the helm of Jeremy Brown, the new Group Executive Chef, who has overseen the installation of a live kitchen barbeque in the garden: a stage for guests who want to see their dishes being cooked up over the flames.
We select three small plates to share: burrata with charred peas, pistachio and mint; Wye Valley asparagus with labneh, brown butter and chilli; and tuna tartare with grilled sourdough. Beautifully presented, these three seasonal dishes complement the al-fresco experience nicely. The asparagus is beautifully fresh and the labneh gives it a summery mezze appeal, its yoghurt base elevating flavours to rich and tangy, along with the kick of the chilli. This is a nice alternative to the creamy sweetness of the burrata, evened out by the earthy, nutty flavour of pistachio and pea and distinct coolness of the mint. For me, the tuna tartare takes the crown. A gorgeous raw texture makes this a delight to eat: it is slightly tangy, slightly sweet, the freshness of the dish is evident in that distinct, delicate tuna flavour. It is topped with the orange-yolk of an egg, making it all the more indulgent.
Deciding to stick with seafood when it comes to a main, a half-grilled lobster with garlic butter arrives at the table. Although equally delicious, it doesn’t steal the show from our starting small plates. Not wanting our Home House experience to end, we decide on dessert. As usual, two to share – the best way to do it. Placed on our table first is the lemon and lavender posset. The ultimate combination of fresh cream juxtaposing with the zinginess of lemon, it has that iconic taste of all creamy lemon desserts. This time, it is elevated with the floral notes of lavender, making it a flavour-trio of dessert dreams, with an extra added crunch of granola. We have also opted for the bronte pistachio and rosewater pavlova with drizzled honey and figs. Again it has that sublime combination of creaminess with floral notes and this time, the earthy, nuttiness of pistachio. Texture-wise, it is heavenly – satisfyingly light and fluffy.
Art and enjoyment have forever been at the forefront of Home House’s identity. They are values that have stood the test of time, and still upheld proudly today. The garden is a true testament to this. A sensual experience, l could tell you an afternoon in Home House’s garden felt as though we had been transported to the Riviera, but why shouldn’t we congratulate London for being the classic beauty that it is, especially in the sunshine? An exclusive London members club at its finest.
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