Situated opposite the pavilion gardens in Brighton and directly next to the Theatre Royal you can find Furna – the new tasting menu restaurant by Dave Mothersill (formerly of The Gingerman).  Furna is the first solo venture for Yorkshire-born Dave, who has been cooking in some of the best restaurants that Brighton has for over two decades now.

Furna is arguably a bold venture for Brighton – the evening tasting menu will set you back £90 per head (for 8 courses) before you have even thought about a drink to go with it, so is it worth the hype? I headed in one Friday evening to try the tasting menu and I have all the details to share with you before you decide to make that booking.

First impressions

Looks are important, and the quality of a restaurant’s decor is one of those things that stick with you- like staying at a nice hotel. You can tell from a mile off when the interiors of a restaurant have been the afterthought and that is most definitely not the case here. From the thin stemmed glassware to the slick brass hardware, the open kitchen to the muted lighting and the elegance of the cutlery, crockery and even their monogrammed ice cubes, it would be impossible to not mention the attention to detail that has gone into this place. We’re instantly impressed and feel confident about what’s to come.

An open kitchen is situated at the back of the building and a small team of talent bustles around in front of our eyes as they prepare for another busy evening. Although it’s a Friday and they’re about to be fully booked we’re impressed by the general sense of calm and quiet confidence among the team.

Tasting menu preconceptions

I’ve been lucky enough to try a few tasting menus in my time and sadly had become a little tired of the concept. I find that inevitably you always end up with a course or even two where you are underwhelmed. To caveat this, I would say that tasting menus are a great choice if you are not naturally adventurous and tend to pick the same kind of dishes, they will definitely broaden your horizons! I messaged the team ahead of my visit to let them know that I would have to forego the wine pairing, and the fact that I can’t eat gluten, so I was a little worried about what I might get substituted with (if you’re coeliac, you’ll know)! To my utter delight, I can honestly say that I did not miss out and there was no stone left unturned. I was also dining with my husband who enjoyed the wine flight and full gluten menu, so can confirm I was well looked after despite the alterations I asked for.

The Furna tasting menu

After a catch up with the charming young sommelier and the swift arrival of some beautifully prepared cocktails and mocktails, we were soon greeted by the arrival of the ‘snacks’ element to the menu. Whilst it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, the chefs bring all courses to your tables and introduce them or discuss any questions which we thoroughly enjoyed as part of the experience. You can also choose to dine at the counter by the open kitchen if you really want to be in the thick of the action. To follow we had what I can only describe as the most sublime bread course I have ever eaten in my life and this was delivered by their pastry chef Jessica Elliot who proudly talked me through how she had managed to create the most decadent gluten-free sourdough bun I had ever had the luxury of eating. The bread course is served with a ridiculously indulgent array of butters and housemade whipped cod’s roe including a cultured, whipped butter topped with frozen shards of duck liver. Outrageous.

The following four seasonally inspired courses included; a jersey royal dish served with cornish crab, peas and salted gooseberries, an XXL morrel farci mushroom dish with three-cornered leek, black garlic, crispy roast chicken skin and sherry, a line caught seabass with celeriac, razor clams, preserved rhubarb and exmoor caviar and then a Herdwick lamb (sourced from Lyon’s Hill farm in Dorset) with asparagus, courgette, ewe’s curd and seaweed.

An alfonso mango, kefir lime and coconut palette cleanser followed before we indulged in one of pastry chef Jessica’s masterful creations; the toasted rice, almond, gariguette strawberry and thai basil dessert. Once again Jessica’s passion shone through in her dish introduction and we eagerly lapped up her enthusiasm before diving in. Refreshingly light, tangy and well paired with the basil doing all the right amounts of talking in this dish.

Parting words

Furna restaurant in Brighton delivers on all accounts; atmosphere, interiors, food quality, staff, detail, execution, and presentation and you will not regret your booking. On reflection, the price tag is really very reasonable for the quality and the courses delivered, especially when you consider the locality of the sourcing, commitment to seasonality and staff talent. Dave Mothersill has created such a high-quality menu, restaurant and team which honestly, we need more of in Brighton. Whilst I would love to see perhaps an A La Carte lunch option and fine dining isn’t for everyone, I personally believe that Furna will be an incredibly successful venture and it won’t be long till we see a star by the door. If there’s one place you’re going to book to eat this Summer in Brighton then make sure it’s Furna.

Opening hours:

Dinner Wednesdays- Saturdays from 6.30pm

Lunch Fridays & Saturdays 12.30pm – 4pm

Outdoor dining Wednesdays – Saturdays 12pm – 4pm (weather dependant)