Seeking Sanctuary in the city? Try out Cellar at Kindred, Hammersmith

Over the past decade, we’ve witnessed the re-birth of the ‘members club’. With the need for co-working style sanctuaries that offer both a home-away-from-home and a stylish office all rolled into one, the likes of Soho House and other trendy house-style clubs have become a sought-after necessity for creatives and grafters in the city, not only to get work done, but to find their own slice of sanctuary in the city. These re-imagined members clubs can sometimes be difficult to crack – if you don’t know someone that belongs, then how can you find out if they’re the one for you? Enter Kindred, an ‘open house’ with a co-working space you can simply book – and making it even better? Kindred’s very own restaurant: Cellar, ready to give you a taste of exactly what’s on offer

I say this because Kindred is far more than simply a coworking space with its own restaurant.  It’s a community passionate about creating real life human connection. Inspired by the openness, warmth, and connection created by gathering around a campfire, at Kindred, guests are encouraged to enjoy incredible food, drinks, entertainment and experiences in a variety of beautiful spaces. I sampled Kindred’s spirit via the restaurant: Cellar. Conveniently located just a short walk from Hammersmith tube station, I found myself in a buzzy courtyard upon a Saturday night, lined with funky bars and eateries alive with the anticipation of those celebrating the weekend. Taking centre stage in this tableau is Kindred itself, a glorious Grade II Listed mansion. A sweeping double staircase leads up to the coworking space/club upstairs and below, the appropriately named restaurant: Cellar. The mansion is aglow with strings of glass bulbs which are draped from its door to the centre of the courtyard – a magnificent scene that tells me aesthetics are high on Kindred’s list of priorities. 

Cellar at Kindred HammersmithWalking into Cellar, I am greeted by a supremely friendly, yet professional front of house who shows me to my table and hands me a cocktail list. The tone of the decor is cool and dark, a natural, earthy colour palette of deep forest greens and plush textures adorn the walls and fabrics around the room. Botanical plants complement the hunter-green velour seating, which I sumptuously sink into. Candles flicker on the table, adding to the dark, yet ambient mood-lighting of the restaurant. Cellar is not large. It is intimate and homely, the vibe is very much welcoming and casual, while still retaining an air of arty coolness. I open the cocktail menu and take very little time in choosing ‘Naked In The Forest’. An elegant glass soon arrives at my table – it holds a slightly smoky Curado Espadin tequila shaken with Everleaf Forest and Bonanto aperitvos, honey, and fresh lime, pineapple and anise bitters. It is strong, punchy and packed with flavour – and despite its strength, proves to be very moreish.

Cellar at Kindred HammersmithSeasonal and ingredient-focused dishes with a global outlook fill the food menu. There is a big emphasis on small sharing plates, of which we order four, plus two more ‘snacks’. The Olives, Picos & Peppers are obviously a staple must, and to complement these we go for the Mustard Vinaigrette Padron Peppers, the kick of which is beautifully balanced out by the creaminess of the accompanying manouri and yoghurt dip. These two snacks set the expectation bar high – olives are such an important prelude to any meal, an immediate signal to suggest exactly how good the rest of it might be – and these were some good olives.

cocktail bar hammersmith londonJust as expected the four small plates are divine. The stand out for me is the Isle of Brae Smoked Haddock Mac ‘n’ Cheese with pecorino and grated soft boiled egg. Creamy, rich, hearty and beautifully wholesome, it warms the soul in a way that only well-cooked comfort food can. It is not too heavy or sickly, proving to be just the right size for us two girls to share – deliciously moreish, we finish the lot. Staying beautifully in season, yet a slightly lighter option, our second small plate pick is the Cylindra Beetroot Salad with smoked walnuts, rocket, chard and taleggio. It is gorgeously fresh (Cellar uses local suppliers wherever possible) full of crunchy flavour, and beautifully rich despite being a salad, thanks to the intense flavours of the walnuts and glorious musky flavoured taleggio cheese.

Cellar at Kindred HammersmithAlso adorning our table top is the Cured Chalk Stream Trout with beetroot mostarda, toasted rye and lemon yoghurt. This one is delicate, the flavour of the cured fish complemented beautifully with the distinct earthy flavour of the beetroot mostarda. Our fourth dish comes in the form of the Korean Spiced Dexter Beef Tartare with egg yolk and straw chips. This one proves to be perhaps the most moreish of the lot – the beef prepared to perfection, a melt-in-the-mouth texture and utterly flavoursome. This is made even more delectable by the salty addition of the ‘straw chips’ which are wonderfully light and just the right side of crunchy.

London RestaurantsAlthough feeling comfortably full – we are never a pair to turn down a pud. Again, the best way to sample the dessert menu is by sharing, so we go for three. Up first is the Orchard Fruit Crumble with Cornish vanilla ice cream – a lovely golden crumble is topped over perfectly cooked fruit – this has an intense aniseed flavour to it – for some this might prove a little too much, but for me is pretty good. The ‘Little Walnut Pick Me Up’ is a tiramisu walnut cake with mascarpone, cream and cocoa – perfect for tiramisu lovers – a really good one, if not a little over done with the cocoa dusting! Our third and final dish comes in the form of the Coconut Panna Cotta with loquats and Earl Grey syrup. For me, this takes the dessert crown – a light, lip-smacking flavour – gorgeously milky, a bouncy blamanche texture and everything a panna cotta should be – made even better by the additional flavours of tropical coconut and floral Earl Grey. 

If you love sharing, small plates, and prefer a relaxed intimate dining experience, then Cellar at Kindred is for you.

Olivia Riccini

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