Founder Natalie Demetriou and head chef Sophie Taverna present responsibly sourced, paired back, ingredient-led cooking. Isn’t everyone I hear you say? But at Lost in the Lanes these guys actually deliver. Partnering with regional heroes Shrub London to ensure they get the very best blood oranges from Totally Citrus, fragrant Nutbourne tomatoes and the chunkiest Bedlam Farm seasonal asparagus.
With a distinct southern Mediterranean feel to the menu it reflects Sophie’s time working in Spain alongside ex-Noma chef Boris Bueno at Ibiza Food Studio and La Finca. The atmosphere is warm and sunny also with comfortable cosy seating, gentle lighting and a service that feels like being welcomed into someone’s home. The focaccia to start was so springy and warm – a must order alongside the small plates of which there are many to choose from – the unctuous roast leek and romesco to the fresh salmon crudo.
The big plates here really sing with flavour also. The bavette steak is a top seller and the plaice a centrepiece showstopper. But even the vegetarian dishes pack a punch with the braised haricot tasting like it’d been gently stewing with oregano and Kalamata olives for hours. A clear nod to Natalie’s Greek heritage.
Not often do you find a spot that packs as much punch on the cocktail front as the food but the short Smokey mezcal based Smoke-o-nut I had was wondrous. Pair with that a thoughtful wine list from small producers and you’re set for a perfect evening.
Open from 6-11pm for dinner service Thurs-Sat & Sunday-Wednesday: 9am-5pm