The Gallivant, Camber Sands: the perfect pocket of cosiness for an adults-only Autumn afternoon well-spent
With winter fast approaching and colder days ahead, many of us, (myself especially), find ourselves feeling resentful towards the transitional season of Autumn. With hot and heady summer days firmly behind us, the disparaging loom of winter can feel somewhat of an unwelcome guest in our calendar. But fear not. What if I told you there was a place perfect for persevering through the unpredictable days of Autumn? To the rescue comes ‘The Gallivant’, Camber Sands: the ultimate spot, come rain or shine, for cosying up with a cocktail upon a cold evening or languishing over a long lunch after a bracing beach walk.
It is here I find myself on one of October’s greyer Sundays, a tempestuous wind blowing in from the ocean and knocking upon the timber-framed door of the low, modern building that is The Gallivant. With an exterior that nods towards ‘beach house’ in style, The Gallivant promises us shelter and sanctuary before even entering. As we venture through the doorway festooned with autumnal decoration (giant pumpkins placed amongst spiky green plants poking from oversized terracotta pots) I notice a huge glowing glass lantern overhead and then a stylish noticeboard adorning the wall to my left. Scrabble-style letters spell out the date, tide times, sunrise, sunset, the temperature, and the phrase: ‘sweater weather is better together’.
Immediately I see that the beach house theme continues inside, but this far from prevents the place from being cosy. It’s seaside cool but like nowhere else I’ve seen in the South East. The interiors create a character more suggestive of The Hamptons than traditional Sussex, with design details including framed vintage swimsuits and 1950s picture postcards of Camber Sands. This chic sense of frivolity emphasises The Gallivant’s holiday vibe, and intertwines perfectly with the layout of the place. A huge, elegant, square bar takes centre stage, glinting glasses hang in rows from above ready to make interesting cocktails. Leafy green pot plants and palms contribute to the light and airy atmosphere of the glass eatery, letting in plenty of natural light, so no matter the season and weather outside, it still seems warm and bright. The orange pop of halloween pumpkins placed here and there sets the scene for the season, as does the seasonal menu which is deftly straightforward, featuring just a small selection for each course.
The focus on provenance and locality is reflected throughout the menu, especially when it comes to wine. Familiar names include Gusbourne (my favourite Kentish wine) but being a Sunday, I opt for an alcohol-free mocktail instead. The ‘Kentish Sour’ consists of Lyre’s Amaretti, sugar syrup, East Sussex apple juice, lemon and lime juice. Hitting that lusted-after note between sharp and sweet, this is the ultimate refresher to begin a meal of more mouthwatering morsels that this area of the South East is best known for. And what better way to start than a fittingly seaside-y starter from the specials menu: scallops with celeriac puree and crispy bacon. Firm yet light and succulent, these scallops are a dreamy little delicacy with a hint of sweetness.
Happiest when sharing starters, I also sample the crown prince pumpkin, goat’s curd, salsify, cobnuts and truffle honey. Again, this little dish is a perfect example of seasonal local delicacies. This seasonal sublimity is carried over into my main course, as well as the selection of sides I have chosen to accompany it. I have opted for the roast quail with liver croute, thyme and armagnac, alongside three petite dishes veg. The quail itself is tender, with a rich, mild flavour that tactfully eases me into ‘roast dinner season’ with culinary elegance. This is helped by the warming, wintery presence of armagnac, combining notes of chocolate, dried fruit, and caramel. The rich flavour of the liver croute is enhanced by the aromatic minty and floral notes of thyme, which again suits the season and highlights the shrewd intelligence of the chef that put this meticulous menu together. Roasted roots with garlic and rosemary, pink fir potatoes with smoked butter and of course a nice helping of purple sprouting broccoli, almonds and brown butter, provide yet more locally-grown goodness bursting with fresh, earthy flavour with all the comfort and heartiness of a home cooked meal.
Autumn’s finery parades itself for a final time in the form of dessert. As they say, ‘the proof is in the pudding’, and this pud was proof that The Gallivant’s chef knows exactly how to make seasonal produce deliciously memorable. A beautiful bowl of roast figs, amaretti, ricotta, almonds, port and creme fraiche beams ‘autumn’ at me through presentation, colour and taste. Burgundy berries give this dish a warm, inviting look while a scattering of almonds and crumble underscore it as a true seasonal sensation. It tastes just as good as it looks, emotive of nostalgic Kentish puddings from days of yore, elevated with a contemporary twist of heart-warming port and marzipan kick of almond amaretti.
Comfortably full, after lunch, we sit on the sofas in the booklined snug, play board games, drink cappuccinos and soak up warmth from the log burner. A true sanctuary by the sea, time spent at The Gallivant means the transition from autumn to winter is far from something to dread. Here, this changeover in the year is simply a reason to curl up in a cosy nook with an ingenious cocktail, or feast on a hearty meal after a bracing beach walk. Dog-friendly and adult-only, this place is perfect for date-night dinners, long lunches, weekends away with friends, or an escape just for two. The Gallivant’s proud slogan is ‘Happiness Is A Place’ and none could be more fitting.
